When it comes to leather, most brands won’t tell you the truth about where their material comes from — or how it’s made. But the tanning process defines everything: the look, the feel, the smell, the durability, and even the environmental impact of your leather goods. The first step in the vegetable tanning process involves preparing the hides by rehydrating and removing hair before actual tanning with natural tannins begins. Chrome tanned leather is processed using chemicals, mainly chromium sulphate, whereas vegetable tanned leather uses natural tannins from plant sources.
At Axess Wallets, we use vegetable-tanned leather from Tuscany, crafted the same way it’s been done for centuries. The hides we use are a by-product of the meat industry, supporting sustainability by reducing waste. We produce our leather goods using traditional, artisanal methods that ensure high quality. Most of the global leather industry, however, has abandoned this natural process for a faster, cheaper, and far more toxic shortcut: chrome tanning, which takes only a single day compared to the months-long process of vegetable tanning.
Here’s why that difference matters — and why we’ll never compromise on it, as the world of vegetable-tanned leather represents a global tradition appreciated for its quality and sustainability.
What Is Leather Tanning?
Tanning is the process of transforming raw animal hides into usable leather — durable, flexible, and beautiful. The key lies in stabilizing the collagen fibers in the hide so they won’t rot or harden. The first step in tanning leather involves removing hair from the hides, often by soaking them in lime solutions to loosen and dissolve the hair and impurities.
Traditionally, artisans achieved this using natural tannins extracted from tree bark such as oak, chestnut, and mimosa. These organic compounds, acting as tanning agents, slowly bond with the collagen, creating a rich, supple material that can last for decades. The vegetable tanning process uses natural tannins found in tree bark, leaves, and roots to preserve and color the hide. Natural tanning agents, such as tannins and acids, are used to transform the skin into durable leather. This ancient craft is known as vegetable tanning.
In contrast, modern industrial tanneries developed a faster, cheaper process in 1858 using chromium salts — known as chrome tanning. The result? Leather that can be “tanned” in a single day, at a fraction of the cost… and at a massive cost to quality and the environment. Like human skin, leather changes and develops character with exposure to sunlight and handling, deepening its patina and unique appearance over time.
The Two Methods Compared
Vegetable-Tanned Leather
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Made with natural tannins from plants, bark, and wood.
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The veg tan process can take up to two months to complete, done mostly by hand.
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Veg tan leather is often cut into double shoulders, making it ideal for various projects.
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Produces thick, organic veg tan leather that develops a unique patina over time.
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Entirely biodegradable and free of toxins or heavy metals.
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Ages beautifully, absorbs moisture and oils from its environment, softens with use, and lasts for decades.
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Belts made from vegetable-tanned leather are durable, develop a rich patina, and soften over time.
Chrome-Tanned Leather
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Made with chromium salts and synthetic acids, chrome leather is widely used in the industry.
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Takes only a single day to tan a hide.
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Produces thin, overly soft leather with uniform color.
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Chrome-tanned leather is often dyed in a range of colors, with brown being especially popular for wallets and accessories.
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Chrome-tanned leather is easy to dye, allowing for a variety of vibrant colors.
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Creates toxic wastewater containing chromium, lead, and formaldehyde.
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Ages poorly, cracks quickly, and carries a chemical odor.
Environmental Impact
The most alarming difference between the two methods isn’t visual — it’s environmental.
Chrome tanning creates highly toxic wastewater that contaminates soil and rivers, particularly in developing regions where waste treatment is often neglected. The sludge left behind contains chromium, arsenic, lead, and formaldehyde, substances known to damage ecosystems and human health. The environmental impact of chrome tanning is significant due to the harmful chemical by-products, while vegetable tanning is generally seen as more environmentally friendly. In contrast, synthetic alternatives like PVC (polyvinyl chloride), commonly used in vegan or faux leather, have their own environmental drawbacks. PVC is derived from fossil fuels, does not biodegrade, and contributes to pollution and waste issues associated with fast fashion and synthetic leather products.
In contrast, vegetable tanning uses natural tannins derived from renewable sources. Often, a blend of natural substances is used in the tanning process to achieve specific qualities in the finished leather. The wastewater is biodegradable, and the leather it produces carries no synthetic residues. In short — it’s the only truly sustainable tanning method.
Quality and Longevity
Vegetable-tanned leather is thicker, stronger, and more natural in both color and scent. It begins firm, but softens beautifully with time, developing a deep patina that tells the story of its owner. Every mark becomes character — not damage. Vegetable-tanned leather is often full grain, which contributes to its durability and natural beauty. Leather produced through vegetable tanning develops a rich patina over time, enhancing its aesthetic appeal, unlike chrome tanned leather which does not develop a patina.
Chrome-tanned leather, on the other hand, may feel soft at first, but it’s often bonded with acrylic coatings to hide imperfections. Over time, these synthetic finishes crack, peel, and flake, giving the product a short lifespan and lifeless texture. Vegetable-tanned leather generally has lower water resistance than chrome-tanned leather, making it less suitable for applications where exposure to moisture is frequent.
That’s why you’ll find chrome-tanned leather in fast fashion — and vegetable-tanned leather in heirlooms. The higher price of vegetable-tanned leather reflects its superior quality, durability, and artisanal production.
Aesthetics: Nature vs. Synthetic
Vegetable-tanned leather:
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Warm, earthy hues that darken gracefully over time—exposure to light accelerates the development of a unique patina.
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Unique texture and scent — every hide is one-of-a-kind.
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Gains richness and depth with age and handling.
Chrome-tanned leather:
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Bright, uniform colors that never evolve.
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Artificial sheen and chemical smell.
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Feels soft, but lifeless.
Caring for Vegetable-Tanned Leather
Caring for vegetable-tanned leather is all about respecting its natural origins and unique properties. Unlike chrome tanned leather, which is often coated with synthetic finishes, vegetable tanned leathers are more sensitive to moisture and require a bit more attention to maintain their beauty and durability. With the right care, your vegetable-tanned leather product—whether it’s a bag, wallet, or belt—can develop a rich patina and last a lifetime.
Cleaning: Start by gently removing dust and dirt with a soft-bristled brush made from natural bristles. Avoid using harsh chemicals or synthetic coatings, as these can strip away the natural oils and damage the leather’s surface. For deeper cleaning, use a mild soap or saddle soap specifically formulated for tanned leather. Always test any cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn’t affect the natural color or texture.
Conditioning: Vegetable-tanned leather can become stiff or dry if not regularly conditioned. To keep it supple and resistant to cracking, apply a leather conditioner or oil that contains natural ingredients like tree bark extracts, oils, and waxes. Products from reputable brands such as Hermann Oak are excellent choices. Conditioning not only enhances the leather’s natural color and texture but also helps it resist moisture and everyday wear.
Protecting: Because vegetable tanned leather is more prone to absorbing moisture than chrome tanned leather, it’s wise to apply a leather protector or waterproofing treatment—especially if your bag or wallet will be exposed to rain or humidity. Look for protectors that use natural waxes and oils rather than synthetic coatings, which can compromise the leather’s breathability and beauty. This extra step will help minimize water stains and keep your leather product looking its best.
Patina and Character: One of the joys of owning vegetable-tanned leather is watching it develop a distinctive patina over time. This process is natural and adds character, but it also means the leather can be more susceptible to staining. Regular care and the occasional application of a leather salve will help balance patina development with protection.
Storage: When not in use, store your vegetable-tanned leather goods in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and excess moisture. Use a breathable storage bag or wrap the item in a soft cloth to protect it from dust and scratches. Avoid plastic bags, which can trap moisture and damage the leather.
The Verdict: Why Axess Chooses Vegetable-Tanned Leather
Vegetable tanning takes longer. It costs more. It requires real craftsmanship.
But it also creates the world’s finest leather — the kind that ages with dignity and character instead of breaking down.
Every Axess Wallet is made from vegetable-tanned Italian leather sourced from family-owned tanneries in Tuscany. The same traditional process used for centuries — no shortcuts, no chrome, no toxins.
It’s not just a choice of material. It’s a choice of values: authenticity, sustainability, and longevity.
That’s the difference between leather that lives — and leather that dies young. Check out our Core Line and Legacy Line collections.